Hmmm...
Reading it, the reviews don't seem too awful to me at all. In fact, they seem pretty straight forward and informed. In fact, they seem very readable (more than one or two I've noticed in S.I. and other sources). What's more, I really like the minimal, straight-up-information layout.
I'm not trying to be contrary for it's own sake (and I still think Jilat's a fuck-wit), but Vital Weekly doesn't strike me as deserving all the opprobrium. A regular, reliable review digest and podcast - seems pretty reasonable to me.